I Want Candy!!

Anna Sui's Resort 2009 was a filled with bubble gum and candy colors paired with soft silhouettes which reference this new cotton candy style.  These bright colors and soft silhouettes offer comfort during these trying times. 

source: www.style.com

Cotton Candy: On the Runway

Richard Nicoll's SP 09 Collection was filled with these new fun exciting candy colors. His  suits have a soft comfortable silhouette typical of the look and were made of silk and light wools. 

sources: http://www.fashion-era.com/trends_2009/2009-spring-summer-fashion-trends-looks.htm#More_Fashion_Trends_for_Spring_2009

New Street Trend: Cotton Candy

Recently I have been noticing an interest in bright pinks, tangerine oranges and other pastel colors. The silhouettes often drapey and the fabrics soft and comforting.  

Following is an image from my favorite style blog: Stylebubble.com.  Susie Bubble's new acessories for spring are these amazing soft candy colored necklaces. They are made by Giia who is an Italian architect and product designer. 

sources: www.stylebubble.com

http://blog.sub-studio.com/2009/04/giia-neckware.html

Casual Vampire

Pudel is a new English label that is perfect for the casual vampire. Their line in filled with slinky web-like see through tees, tops and leggings that seem to have come from the grave, but sexier. Some of their tops like this one have a military feel, that is often appropriated by the vampire set. The shirt is made of Japanese cotton and the leggings are viscose. 

source: http://www.pudel.co.uk/shop/

Vampires on the Runway

Lina Osterman's SP 09 Collection is full of vampire references. She pairs sexy sheer black tees with black leather pants and slashed knitwear overtop. The models have the pallor of the living dead with their blonde locks. Other looks include a long black leather coat typical of vampire style and shredded jeans. She also plays with the a white palette as well exploring the option of the more angelic vampire. This trend is popular right now as a reaction to our current economic state people are looking escapism and fantasy in fashion. 

source: www.stylebubble.com

New Street Trend: Vampire

The Vampire  Street trend first started off with movies like Interview with a Vampire and has been reignited by the success of the movie Twilight.  It is similiar to the gothic look in that it embraces leather, a dark palette, corsetry and slashed clothing but the vampire look tends to include also Victorian and sometimes Western influences.

The above image is of Finnish band Vanity Ink from Helsinki Finland who embody vampire style with cowboy hats, long leather jackets, fishnets, leather pants and lots of eye make up and of course fangs. 

sources: http://viewmorepics.myspace.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=viewImage&friendID=66847526&albumID=2599648&imageID=42718182

Hip Hop Lives On

In the 1980s Hip Hop fashion spread to the runways as it caught the attention of major fashion designers.  Issac Mizrahi was inspired by the gold chain his elevator operator wore and designed a collection heavily influenced by hip hop.  Even conservative Chanel could not resist the allure of hip hop and designed their Fall 1991 collection with black leather jackets and piles of bling. 

DSquared brings back the hip hop look this season pairing its sexy bathing suits with lots of bling and big sunglasses, which points to classic hip hop references. 

source: www.wikipedia.com

Hip Hop Style: My Adidas

Youngsters and Rappers like Run DMC made Hip Hop fashion popular.  Hip Hop fashion was characterized by matching of military, sports or formal garments.  Often sweatshirts with large logos and baggy pants and baseball hats were part of their attire.  Bright colors and large accessories were also part of hip hop culture. I have included a picture of Shock G a.ka. Humpty Hump in full hip hop attire big sunglasses, bling and fur. In addition,  Run DMC shows  another version of hip hop style: sports jackets mixed with bling and colorful t-shirts. 

sources: www.wikipedia.com

Sheena is A Punk Rocker

Greta Constantine is a emerging Canadian designer who references punk style in her Fall 2010 Preview.  Her open back dress references punk style with its black palette as well as big gold studs. 

Punk style lives on just like the Ramones.  Designers like House of Holland, Alexander McQueen and Vivienne Westwood continue on the tradition.  The above image is from House of Holland's Fall 08 Collection. It includes classic punk styling: a short skirt, lots of plaid, combat boots and references pirates, another group of rebels. 

sources: www.stylebubble.com

www.style.com

Punk: The Original

Punk style developed in urban centers in the 70s in the U.S. and Europe as a response to feelings of alienation.  Their clothing style consisted of leather jackets, metal studded and ripped clothing, combat boots and plaid pants and jackets. One of the most important designers of this time period was Vivienne Westwood. The attached image is a cotton bondage suit she designed in 1976.  It consists of a genderless matching two-piece jacket and trousers. The trousers have a zippered seam under the crotch and a detachable black towelling 'bum flap' and 'hobble' straps.The outfit also includes black combat boots and a beret and handkerchief depicting the Sex Pistols logo.The outfit references army combat gear, motorcyclist and fetish wear, and was the archetypal Punk outfit popularised by bands like the Sex Pistols.

source: http://collections.vam.ac.uk/objectid/O7258

Disco: That Ball Just Keeps Spinning

This white tight fitting suit from DSquared's SP 09 Collection brings back so many memories from the 70s. It is reminiscent of John Travolta's suit in Saturday Night Fever as well as Bianca Jagger's suit that she got married in. The cut of the suit paired with the large gold necklace make this outfit a sure fire throwback from the 70s. 

For BCBG Max Azria's SP09 line they included some disco inspired pieces. One of my favorites is this bright tangerine orange, a classic disco color.  It's sexy silhouette with the deep neck line and short skirt is also typical of that time period.

source: style.com

Disco: The Original

This dress was designed in 1978 by a group of 4 young designers who designed under the label Swanky Models.  They were a London based team in the Camden Square district. Dresses like this Lycra jersey dress were made popular at the disco clubs and by movies like Saturday Night Fever with John Travolta. The disco era was known for its use of synthetic materials, tight futuristic silhouettes and bright colors.  

source:http://collections.vam.ac.uk/objectid/O72706

Modern Hippy Chic

The above look is from Chloe's SP 04 Collection when Phoebe Philo was still at the helm.  This look embodies the modern hippy style with high waisted wide leg jeans, a butterfly necklace and a casual striped cotton shirt. 

This look from Anna Sui's Spring 05 Collection is a illustrative of hippy style.  It includes embroidery,  ruffles, ethnic jewelery (turquoise) and the dress is paired with cowboy boots, typical of hippy style. 

source: style.com

Hippies: The Original

Hippies first appeared in the 1960s are a counter culture movement in the U.S.  They favored jeans, long hair, floral and psychedelic prints and ethnic clothing.  The following image of a Kaftan designed by Mr. Fish in the United Kingdom in 1973.  It is made of printed silk. Mr. Fish was one of the main figure's in London's fashion scene for men in the 60s and 70s. He designed Mick Jagger's outfit for their famous Hyde Park concert in 1969. Mr. Fish was also one of the first designers to produce floral shirts and kipper ties for men. 

source:http://collections.vam.ac.uk/indexplus/result.html?_IXFIRST_=1&_IXSS_=_IXFIRST_%3d1%26_IXINITSR_%3dy%26%2524%253dIXID%3d%26_IXACTION_%3dquery%26%2524%253dIXOBJECT%3d%26_IXMAXHITS_%3d15%26%252asform%3dvanda%26%2524%253dIXNAME%3d%26_IXSESSION_%3dzWV3mR0GlBa%26%2524%253dIXPLACE%3d%26_IXadv_%3d0%26search%3dsearch%26%2524%253dIXMATERIAL%3d%26%2524%253ds%3dhippy%26%2524%253dop%3dAND%26_IXFPFX_%3dtemplates%252ft%26%2524%253dsi%3dtext%26%2524%253dIXFROM%3d%26%2524%253dIXTO%3d%26%2524%253ddelflag%3dy&_IXACTION_=query&_IXMAXHITS_=1&_IXSR_=ENjYE147IS2&_IXSPFX_=templates%2ft&_IXFPFX_=templates%2ft

Mods: Back for More

Anna Sui welcomes back Sargent Pepper with this updated mod rock look. It's Axel Rose on prozac.  This bright cowboy inspired outfit is typical of the mod era when rockers and wannabes dressed in this style to fight the status quo and boring adult clothing. This outfit is from Anna Sui's SP 05 RTW Collection. 

This is Australian Designer Kirrily Johnston's version of the 60s look from his Spring 06 Collection. It has the classic Peter Pan collar from the Mod look as well as the mini skirt. This look was made popular again in 2006 with the release of the movie "Factory Girl" starring Sienna Miller as Edie Sedgwick, Warhol's drug-addicted muse. 

sources: www.style.com

Mods: The Original

Twiggy is the quintessential  mod girl.  She often modelled the brightly colored looks that were favored by the mods and made popular by musicians like the Beatles.  Mods also favored included vintage items that bordered on costumes. 

One of the most important designers of this era was Mary Quant who is credited with inventing the mini skirt and hot pants.  This bright red raincoat is typical of the fun youthful style of the mods.  It took Mary Quant two years to perfect the bonding of PVC seams in order to made coats like this one. 

Raincoat 

Mary Quant (1934-) 

1963 PVC 

Remade 1973 

Lent by the Museum of Costume, Bath

sources:

www.wikipedia.com

http://images.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http://www.vam.ac.uk/images/image/25723-large.jpg&imgrefurl=http://www.vam.ac.uk/images/image/25333-popup.html&usg=__RTMvdWp83Be9wDQGZmDLNKn4qrU=&h=397&w=263&sz=26&hl=en&start=6&sig2=YeGg45fKnf-yChSZ-c8L9A&um=1&tbnid=6oC5G4U8IvP1VM:&tbnh=124&tbnw=82&prev=/images%3Fq%3Dmary%2Bquant%26hl%3Den%26client%3Dsafari%26rls%3Den-us%26sa%3DX%26um%3D1&ei=Paz_SYv6BsXcmQeGseW9BA Given by Mary Quan

Teddy Boys: Back Again

This suit is from Band of Outsider's Fall 09 Collection.  The use of velvet and sophisticated trimmings (gold buttons, black trim) are typical of the Teddy Boy look. In addition, the trousers are the classic drainpipes from the Teddy Boy look. 

This  outfit from Comme des Garcon's Fall 2005 show is a Teddy Boy's dream. The drape jacket with velvet collar is paired with cropped pants typical of Teddy Boy style. Rei Kawakubo also included a shirt with a stitched bib nad another shirt with a ruffle plaket, both homages to Teddy Boys. 

source: style.com

Teddy Boys: The Original

The Teddy Boy's were part of a subculture that developed in England in the 1950s. They were the first generation of young people to have a disposable income.  They were the exact opposite of the Beats in that they were very concerned with their appearance, using the Edwardian era to draw their main inspiration. The men often wore long jackets with velvet collars and slim-jim ties.  They finished off the look with drainpipe pants and pointy shoes. 

source: http://images.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_fl2B1rfreGM/SVeiiHzbvBI/AAAAAAAAAT8/21_n2FoG_s4/s320/teddy3.jpg&imgrefurl=http://somelikeitvintage.blogspot.com/2008/12/teddy-boys.html&usg=__kwM1_Gi34yCSNHWdHNg3hoWG5qQ=&h=270&w=320&sz=28&hl=en&start=13&sig2=AniRfDwamhdA2Rna7cJUng&tbnid=v9QMGHhctht8iM:&tbnh=100&tbnw=118&prev=/images%3Fq%3Dteddy%2Bboys%2Bfashion%26gbv%3D2%26hl%3Den%26sa%3DG&ei=E6H_SYyJD6aEmAetr_jXBA

Beatniks: The Next Generation

This wool suit from Thom Browne's (England) Fall 09 Collection is a new take on the Beatnik look.  It has the skinny tie,  dark palette and simple silhouette and cuffed pants. I would credit Thom Browne with bringing this look back last year with his 2008 collection.  Thom Browne has added a rugby stripe to the arm to put a new spin on this look.  

This look from Rag and Bone's Fall 2009 Collection epitomizes the new Beatnik look.  It has a dark palette,  skinny silhouette and cuffed pants.  

source: www.style.com

Beatniks: The Original

The Beatnik look was based on the idea of anti-materialism and improving the inner self rather than focusing on one's appearance.  However, the Beatniks still had a certain look. They dressed often in dark colors, wearing skinny ties and appropriating vintage items such as captains hats or railroad hats representing the working man.  Many Beatniks travelled across the country hopping trains or hitchiking.  

sources: www.static.hcrhs.k12.nj.us/ images/sl142/beat.jpg

I

Zoot Suits: Reinvented

Christophe Decarnin brings the Zoot Suit back to life in his Fall 09 Collection for Balmain.  His suits have extravagant padded shoulders and the pants are big and baggy but taper at the ankle. His twist is the sexy slit up the front of the leg with  fitted sexy tuxedo jackets. 

source: style.com

Marc Jacob's Spring 07 Collection also references the Zoot Suit. This particular look has the oversized trousers that taper at the ankle that was the typical Zoot Suit silhouette. It also alludes to the Zoot Suit attitude of "Look at Me" with its flashy gold jacket.

source: style.com

Street Trends: Zoot Suits: The Original

The Zoot Suit was made popular by African American and Latino men in the 1940s.  It was a reaction against the social norms.  At a time when African American and Latino men were supposed to be subservient to whites, the Zoot Suit was a direct challenge to social order with its outrageous details.  The suits had exaggerated padded shoulders and baggy pant legs that tapered at the ankle.  During wartime they became less popular as restrictions were put on textiles. The featured image is a zoot suit worn by Cab Calloway in the movie Stormy Weather from 1943.  The costume designer for the movie was Helen Rose who still works in Hollywood today.  She began her career at 15 in Chicago designing outfits for nightclubs and dancers. 

sources: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Helen_Rose

http://collections.vam.ac.uk/indexplus/result.html?_IXFIRST_=7&_IXSS_=_IXFIRST_%3d1%26_IXINITSR_%3dy%26%2524%253dIXID%3d%26_IXACTION_%3dquery%26%2524%253dIXOBJECT%3d%26_IXMAXHITS_%3d15%26%252asform%3dvanda%26%2524%253dIXNAME%3d%26_IXSESSION_%3dLhmHJ1rBDyC%26%2524%253dIXPLACE%3d%26_IXadv_%3d0%26search%3dsearch%26%2524%253dIXMATERIAL%3d%26%2524%253ds%3dzoot%2bsuit%26%2524%253dop%3dAND%26_IXFPFX_%3dtemplates%252ft%26%2524%253dsi%3dtext%26%2524%253dIXFROM%3d%26%2524%253dIXTO%3d%26%2524%253ddelflag%3dy&_IXACTION_=query&_IXMAXHITS_=1&_IXSR_=kwJnjMfGvOA&_IXSPFX_=templates%2ft&_IXFPFX_=templates%2ft

http://ochmonek.wordpress.com/2007/08/23/an-ofay-beefs/

Historical Artistic Style: Surrealism

James Charles Evening jacket

Date: 1937 (designed)

Techniques: Quilted satin, filled with down

Place: Paris, France 

A surrealistic composition is made when unrelated objects or symbols are placed in the same composition and the viewer's subconscious mind is left to determine the meaning. In fashion it can be combining unrelated fabrics or ideas, creating a paradox. This jacket was created by Charles James for Mrs. Oliver Burr Jennings in 1937. It was designed in the same way a down quilt would be constructed.  It became a cult item in the 1970s and James wanted to try it in other materials such as leather or nylon stuffed with kapok for skiing or other sportswear. 

source: Victoria and Albert Museum 

http://collections.vam.ac.uk/objectid/O75134

Historical Artistic Style:Pop Art, Mondrian and Pollock

Agatha Ruis Della Prada

Autumn/Winter 2009 

Fabrics: Plastic, Fake Hair, Jersey 

Her new collection is fun and over the top as always.  This time 

it is inspired by Vasarely's compositions, Piet Mondrian's geometry and Yayoi Kusama's extravagant spots. I have  included pictures of her current collections as well as the artists she references.  The complex combination of elements references the uncertain times we are in, much like the tumultous 60s and 70s when free love, the Vietnam War and  Watergate all happened. 

Vasarely

 

Yayoi Kusama 

sources: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Yayoi_Kusama

http://agatharuizdelaprada-com.blogspot.com/search?updated-min=2009-01-01T00%3A00%3A00-08%3A00&updated-max=2010-01-01T00%3A00%3A00-08%3A00&max-results=8

Historical Artistic Style: Gothic

Jean Paul Gaultier

Fall 2009 RTW

Photo 1: Wool coat with corset

Photo 2: Black Satin dress with Organza

Gaultier relies heavily on Gothic references for his Fall 09 Collection.  Many of his outfits mix tight fitting garments like the corset layered overtop of more loose garments like this brown wool coat.  The black satin and organza dress's areas of opacity and transparency mirror the light and shadow that is captured in Gothic Cathedrals. The color palette of dark tones is inspired by the opacity of the stained glass windows. 

source: www. style.com

Historical Artistic Style: Egyptian

Yves Saint Laurent

Spring 2009 RTW

Fabric: Satin

In their artwork Egyptians used scale to denote the importance of the figure.  Gods were the largest, while slaves were the smallest.  Gods, priests and royalty were represented in stiff poses.  All of their clothing was white and much of it draped like this Yves Saint Laurent dress.  The ridigity of the model also echoes the stiffness of the goddess and gods. 

Historical Artistic Style: Renaissance

Roman Courtesan

by Parmingianino

c. 1535

This painting by Parmingianino from the 1500s shows the influence of Renaissance masters on fashion.  During this era, Da Vinci, Michelangelo and Raphael's works were based on mathematics. They strove to produce art that reproduced every detail of the human form and emphasized the beauty of the figure. Thus, garments became more revealing to show the humanity and perfection of the human form. This is shown in the low necklines, as seen in this painting. Renaissance artists also worked with color to make each depiction as life-like as possible. In garments this meant that they  were designed with carefully chosen colors and textures that complimented each other. In the Roman Courtesan we see the use of fur mixed with different brocade fabrics. 

Sources:Wikipedia: Parmingianino 

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Parmigianino_004.jpg

La Couturiere Parisienne: Medieval and Renaissance

http://www.marquise.de/en/1500/index.shtml

Historical Artistic Style: Baroque

Susanna Pellicorne with Daughter

by a student of Rembrandt

1632/3

Wallace Collection, London

This painting by one of Rembrandt's students shows influences of the Baroque artistic style on dress.  The Baroque period was a tumultous period filled with political and religious violence. The violence and uncertainty of the time was expressed in art by exaggerated poses, dramatic backgrounds and overwhelming compositions.  This drama in art translated into fashion by way of extreme silhouettes, including outrageous collars like the one seen in this painting.  The inclusion of oversized elements in the silhouette destablized the figure mirroring the distress of the time.  

Source: La Couturiere Parisienne: 1600s

http://www.marquise.de/en/1600/pics/1600b.shtml

Healthy Corsets 1880s and 1890s

In the 1860s and 70s corsets were blamed for many health ailments so designers and manufactuers decided to start exploring and marketing new "healthy" corsets.  Starting in the 1880s there was also a new interest in sports, physical wellness and comfort. 

I have attached images of a few of my personal favorites. 

In 1878 Dr. Gustave Jaeger began marketing the idea that undyed wool next to the skin promoted good health. His corset is reinforced with heavy cording to produce a more comfortable and healthier corset. Adjustable shoulder straps and front buttoned created a practical rather than attractive silhouette. First produced by the Artex Company in 1888 wool is still used today to keep the body warm in the winter and cool in the summer.  

The image I have attached is one of his corsets from the 1890s made of wool and reinforced with cording.  

Another interesting corset from this period is the electric corset which came from the metallic composition of the garment. 

Finally, the ventilated corset was designed for summer and sports wear. It had spaces between the whalebone and cotton tapers, that allowed the air to circulate and let the wearer sweat. This British corset dates from 1890-1900 and is made of cotton and whalebone and trimmed with broderie anglaise and silk ribbon and steel center back supports. 

Victorian Era Corsets

During the Victorian Era the function of the corset was primarily the narrowing of the waist.  It is rumored that some women laced their corsets so tightly that they were able to achieve 12-14" waists.  This is probably hearsay. Most fashionable women had roughly 24-26" waists but would buy smaller corsets and leave a gap in the back. The corsets of the 1840s were cut from separate pieces to give roundness and fullness to the bust and shape the hips. A broad busk made of wood or steel was inserted up the center front of the corset to give a clean line to the bodice.  Strips of whalebone were inserted in the back and sometimes the sides to give further structure. Often leather was also used to reinforce the corset.  The corsets of this time had to be stiff to conceal the many layers of underwear.  During this period corsets also became longer to narrow the waist. 

In the 1860s steam-moulding was developed and helped create a more voluptuous silhouette. Once the corset was finished it was heavily starched and then dried and shaped on a mannequin mould that was fed steam. 

I have attached three images. 

The first is the front view of a British corset from 1878.  It is made of white silk satin with lace trim and whalebone with a steel spoon-shaped busk.  

The second image is the back view of  this corset. 

The third image is of the ideal wasp shaped waist from the Victorian Era. The photographic retouchers have cut off and curved the woman's waist to create the exaggerated silhouette.