Yves Saint Laurent

Since I haven't included any menswear yet, I decided to post this Yves Saint Laurent Safari Suit. It was owned by Anthony Powell, a theatre designer. He never wore the ensemble together, but would alternate it with pieces of an almost identical beige suit, also by Yves Saint Laurent. At the time, Mr. Powell loved this casual suit and felt that it could be worn for almost any occasion. 

Safari Suit

1970 

Paris

Cotton Twill

Mary Quant

In the 60s, Mary Quant gave young girls their own style of dressing.  Before the 1960s youth quake, girls were forced to wear the same clothing as their mothers.  She designed bold items like this fun shift dress so that girls could express themselves. 

Peachy

Mary Quant

1960

Wool

Worn by Mrs. Margaret Stewart. 

 Waistcoat

Waistcoats were part of men's three piece ensemble in the 18th C. This example is rare because the expensive silk damask is used for the back and the front of the coat, whereas ordinarily it would only be used for the front. The backs were usually made of fustian, a cheap blend of cotton and linen, since the back of the coat was never seen in public.  This coat was for informal use only due to it's monochromatic color and simplicity of the weave. 

Waistcoat

Unknown Designer

England

1710-20

Silk damask lined with fustian and silk

Coco Chanel 

This 1930s evening dress was designed by Coco Chanel.  It is significant because is marks a departure from  her designs of the 1920s which were more sporty and androgynous. This dress is typical of the dresses of the early 1930s, which were tight fitting, showing off every curve, unlike the boxy silhouette of the 1920s. During this time most evening gowns were sleeveless with a low neckline or back.  

Evening Dress

Paris

1932

Machine and Hand Sewn Blue Tulle and Sequins

Yves Saint Laurent

This dress was worn by the Duchess of Windsor.  The Duchess was a couture client throughout her life and Yves Saint Laurent was one of her favorite designers.  She chose this dress when she was 62 years old.  This dress was inspired by the bell-shaped skirts fashionable in the 1860s.  The construction of the dress is also influenced by the late 1800s, it has a fitted boned corset and bell-shaped skirt supportedby a layered petticoat.  How many bows can you count? 

There are 42 in all!!!

Bal Masque

Yves Saint Laurent

Paris 

Spring/Summer 1958

Black silk tulle and boned cream silk, bugle beads and satin ribbons

Jeanne Lanvin

This afternoon coat is made of black silk chiffon, to which squares of black wool crepe have been applied. This coat is an example of the strong relationship between art and fashion. The geometric forms in this piece are assembled according to the collage techqniue, which wa part of the abstract art movement of the 1920s. Black was popularized for the use in evening wear by Coco Chanel in the mid-1920s. 

Afternoon Coat

Jeanne Lanvin

Paris

Summer 1929

  Black Crepe and Silk Chiffon

Designers and Textiles

Christain Dior

I have recently become a fan of Dior. I always loved the classic image on the new look on the edge of Central Park but after doing some research into jackets from the 40s and 50s I have a new found love for his silhouettes and use of fabrics. "Zemire", pictured here is one of Dior's most important designs. It is named after an opera by Gretry.  The original version in grey silk satin was shown to Princess Margaret in 1954 but this piece was comissioned by a private client, the wife of a British textile manufacturer. 

Zemire evening ensemble

Christian Dior 

Paris

1954-5 Autumn/Winter

Cellulose acetate, with the skirt lined with layers of silk and net

Worn by: Lady Agota Sekers