Mods: The Original

Twiggy is the quintessential  mod girl.  She often modelled the brightly colored looks that were favored by the mods and made popular by musicians like the Beatles.  Mods also favored included vintage items that bordered on costumes. 

One of the most important designers of this era was Mary Quant who is credited with inventing the mini skirt and hot pants.  This bright red raincoat is typical of the fun youthful style of the mods.  It took Mary Quant two years to perfect the bonding of PVC seams in order to made coats like this one. 

Raincoat 

Mary Quant (1934-) 

1963 PVC 

Remade 1973 

Lent by the Museum of Costume, Bath

sources:

www.wikipedia.com

http://images.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http://www.vam.ac.uk/images/image/25723-large.jpg&imgrefurl=http://www.vam.ac.uk/images/image/25333-popup.html&usg=__RTMvdWp83Be9wDQGZmDLNKn4qrU=&h=397&w=263&sz=26&hl=en&start=6&sig2=YeGg45fKnf-yChSZ-c8L9A&um=1&tbnid=6oC5G4U8IvP1VM:&tbnh=124&tbnw=82&prev=/images%3Fq%3Dmary%2Bquant%26hl%3Den%26client%3Dsafari%26rls%3Den-us%26sa%3DX%26um%3D1&ei=Paz_SYv6BsXcmQeGseW9BA Given by Mary Quan

Teddy Boys: Back Again

This suit is from Band of Outsider's Fall 09 Collection.  The use of velvet and sophisticated trimmings (gold buttons, black trim) are typical of the Teddy Boy look. In addition, the trousers are the classic drainpipes from the Teddy Boy look. 

This  outfit from Comme des Garcon's Fall 2005 show is a Teddy Boy's dream. The drape jacket with velvet collar is paired with cropped pants typical of Teddy Boy style. Rei Kawakubo also included a shirt with a stitched bib nad another shirt with a ruffle plaket, both homages to Teddy Boys. 

source: style.com

Teddy Boys: The Original

The Teddy Boy's were part of a subculture that developed in England in the 1950s. They were the first generation of young people to have a disposable income.  They were the exact opposite of the Beats in that they were very concerned with their appearance, using the Edwardian era to draw their main inspiration. The men often wore long jackets with velvet collars and slim-jim ties.  They finished off the look with drainpipe pants and pointy shoes. 

source: http://images.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_fl2B1rfreGM/SVeiiHzbvBI/AAAAAAAAAT8/21_n2FoG_s4/s320/teddy3.jpg&imgrefurl=http://somelikeitvintage.blogspot.com/2008/12/teddy-boys.html&usg=__kwM1_Gi34yCSNHWdHNg3hoWG5qQ=&h=270&w=320&sz=28&hl=en&start=13&sig2=AniRfDwamhdA2Rna7cJUng&tbnid=v9QMGHhctht8iM:&tbnh=100&tbnw=118&prev=/images%3Fq%3Dteddy%2Bboys%2Bfashion%26gbv%3D2%26hl%3Den%26sa%3DG&ei=E6H_SYyJD6aEmAetr_jXBA

Beatniks: The Next Generation

This wool suit from Thom Browne's (England) Fall 09 Collection is a new take on the Beatnik look.  It has the skinny tie,  dark palette and simple silhouette and cuffed pants. I would credit Thom Browne with bringing this look back last year with his 2008 collection.  Thom Browne has added a rugby stripe to the arm to put a new spin on this look.  

This look from Rag and Bone's Fall 2009 Collection epitomizes the new Beatnik look.  It has a dark palette,  skinny silhouette and cuffed pants.  

source: www.style.com

Beatniks: The Original

The Beatnik look was based on the idea of anti-materialism and improving the inner self rather than focusing on one's appearance.  However, the Beatniks still had a certain look. They dressed often in dark colors, wearing skinny ties and appropriating vintage items such as captains hats or railroad hats representing the working man.  Many Beatniks travelled across the country hopping trains or hitchiking.  

sources: www.static.hcrhs.k12.nj.us/ images/sl142/beat.jpg

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Zoot Suits: Reinvented

Christophe Decarnin brings the Zoot Suit back to life in his Fall 09 Collection for Balmain.  His suits have extravagant padded shoulders and the pants are big and baggy but taper at the ankle. His twist is the sexy slit up the front of the leg with  fitted sexy tuxedo jackets. 

source: style.com

Marc Jacob's Spring 07 Collection also references the Zoot Suit. This particular look has the oversized trousers that taper at the ankle that was the typical Zoot Suit silhouette. It also alludes to the Zoot Suit attitude of "Look at Me" with its flashy gold jacket.

source: style.com

Street Trends: Zoot Suits: The Original

The Zoot Suit was made popular by African American and Latino men in the 1940s.  It was a reaction against the social norms.  At a time when African American and Latino men were supposed to be subservient to whites, the Zoot Suit was a direct challenge to social order with its outrageous details.  The suits had exaggerated padded shoulders and baggy pant legs that tapered at the ankle.  During wartime they became less popular as restrictions were put on textiles. The featured image is a zoot suit worn by Cab Calloway in the movie Stormy Weather from 1943.  The costume designer for the movie was Helen Rose who still works in Hollywood today.  She began her career at 15 in Chicago designing outfits for nightclubs and dancers. 

sources: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Helen_Rose

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http://ochmonek.wordpress.com/2007/08/23/an-ofay-beefs/